The big ones
- Taj Mahal, Agra. Go at opening time. It’s closed on Fridays.
- Golden Temple, Amritsar. Open day and night. The early morning and late evening are calmest, and the free community kitchen is worth seeing.
- Jaipur. Amber Fort fills up by late morning. Get there when it opens.
- Goa. Christmas to New Year is the busiest week of the year. November and February are lovely and calmer.
- Kerala backwaters. Book houseboats that take quieter routes, or stay in a homestay on the canals.
- Varanasi. The evening aarti at Dashashwamedh Ghat is packed. Watch it from a boat, or go to the quieter morning aarti at Assi Ghat.
- Manali and Shimla. Avoid long weekends and school holidays.
- Ladakh. July and August are the busiest. June and September are beautiful too.
- Mumbai and Delhi. Avoid sightseeing in rush hour and use the metro.
When India travels
Domestic travel spikes around Diwali, Christmas to New Year, summer school holidays (May and June) and long weekends. If your dates are flexible, check the festival calendar and steer around them, unless the festival is the point.
Quieter alternatives
See our list of underrated places and the honest guide to what’s overhyped.
